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Why Do Sheep Need Shearing? A Beginners Overview Of Shearing Sheep


Shearing sheep, we just set up in an open alleyway of the barn.

Wondering why sheep need shearing? Why can’t they just keep their wool all year and farmers and ranchers would have less work to do? Let’s look into it!

Sheep need shearing to remove wool that will not naturally shed. Shearing wool keeps the sheep more comfortable in the warm weather and helps the sheep stay clean throughout the rest of the year.

Spring shearing is crucial to the heath of your flock. Timely shearing sets up the ewes for a successful lambing season and gives you an up close inspection of the sheep one at a time.

When your sheep have all of their wool on it is hard to get a close look at them to make sure they are happy and healthy as possible.

Easiest Breeds Of Sheep To Raise will go over my best recommendations for sheep that are beginner friendly.

Is she keeping on weight or is she too fat? She might be closer to lambing than you thought so you can put her in the soon to lamb pen so you can keep a close eye on her.

Rams also benefit from individual care and the close inspection you can make now that their wool is off since for most of the year the wool obscures your view.

With the wool removed you can easily see his body condition (how fat or thin he is). How does he look?

If he’s not performing as well as you would like you can start your search for a replacement ram with plenty of time to consider your options before breeding season starts.

11 Breeds Of Sheep With Black Faces is an interesting look at some sheep with a bit of color, since ours are all white but one!

Sheep that are the same size look very different once they are shorn. The front two sheep would be very similar in body size.

Take a look at the picture above. Those front two ewe lambs are about the same age and weight. It sure doesn’t look like it in that picture!

It’s crazy the difference that shearing makes in the appearance of a sheep.

Determine when to shear based on wool growth and weather

The wool (called the fleece) of a sheep needs shearing at least once a year. For most sheep this is the case.

Normally shearing is scheduled at a month or so before spring lambing.

Spring is the traditional choice for shearing to give the lambs the best chance of successfully finding the udder and nursing as soon after birth as possible.

Breeds with longer fleeces of 6-12 inches need shearing more often to keep the fleece in top condition. Both spring and fall shearing is needed for these guys and gals.

When To Shear Sheep goes over some of the things a flock owner needs to take into consideration when scheduling the shearer.

wool bag full of wool, The Sheep Game (YouTube)
Wool being bagged up after shearing. Image from The Sheep Game (YouTube)

Long wool breeds such as Lincoln or Cotswold require multiple shearings per year (usually two) to keep the fleece from matting together.

The tangled fleece will not overly bother the sheep but it will make a big difference to the farmer.

Tangles and matting will make the fleece unusable for the handspinners and crafters that want to purchase these fleeces.

Specialty wool is in high demand and commands a good price, but only if the fleece is in top condition.

Not all breeds of sheep need shearing

Not all breeds need shearing because not all breeds of sheep have wool!

Sheep without wool to shear are called hair sheep. Common examples of hair sheep breeds are Katahdins and Dorpers.

At first glance hair sheep might be mistaken for goats especially if you thought all sheep have a woolly exterior.

Hair sheep do grow a more wool like coat in the winter to keep warm. In the spring they shed this woolly insulation to spend the summer with a hair coat.

Sheep are shorn with clippers

Most people shear with clippers. These are the same type of clippers as a barber would use but much bigger and more durable.

How To Set Up Clippers goes over the specifics of setting up your comb and cutter to shear.

The clippers have two sets of blades. The bottom set is called the comb.

The comb is a stationary blade that glides through the wool to hold the wool upright so it can be cut by the top blade.

The top blade is called the cutter. The cutter is the only blade on clipper that moves.

The cutter travels quickly back and forth over the comb. This is the movement that actually cuts the fibers of the fleece.

The blades on both the top and bottom need replaced when they start to dull. Blades can be sharpened and used repeatedly.

The number of sheep you can shear per set of blades varies widely depending upon if the fleece is clean and dry or wet and/or dirty.

Some types of wool also seem to dull blades faster than others.

Shearing does not hurt the sheep!

Shearing does not hurt the sheep! Most sheep don’t like being held -just like most of our barn cats!

The first picture in this article is my husband shearing one of our sheep. We make our living off of these animals.

Healthy, happy animals have better lives and give us better results. It just doesn’t make sense for us to put a lot of time and effort into hurting our flock.

The one most likely to get hurt during shearing is actually the person. Sheep can be feisty. Remember you only have one hand free to hold the sheep. The other hand has the clippers!

Here is some footage of the shearer we hired, Brian Dreffs, of Michigan, to shear for us. It went great!

Shearing costs $5.00 per head

Most shearers will charge around $5 each to shear and s/he takes the wool. Keep in mind if you only have a few sheep the cost will be higher as s/he will probably have a minimum charge per job.

The minimum charge per flock is reasonable because coming to you means not going to other possibly bigger flocks today.

You can keep your wool if you would like, all of it or just a few specially chosen fleeces. Be sure to tell your shearer ahead of time.

Keeping the wool will raise the price per head charged to you because the shearer being able to sell the wool is figured into your cost.

Ask other flock owners in your area. What are they paying and who does the best job?

Here’s a look at a shearing contractor site in Australia, it gives you a look at the business side of shearing.

You can shear your own sheep!

Heck, yes! You sure can shear your own sheep! Everyone who is shearing now had to learn and start at the beginning just like you.

Shearing your own sheep is challenging. Once you get the hang of positioning the sheep and get comfortable with the clippers you will get faster.

Like everything else this is a skill that takes time and practice to master.

When you decide to give shearing a try yourself the supplies shouldn’t be too hard to find.

Many livestock supply stores will have clippers and blades on hand or they are easily ordered. There are also tons of detailed videos online to get you started off right.

Sheep 101: Shearing has an interesting overview of most aspects of shearing, if you are looking for more information.

Related Questions

How long does it take to shear a sheep?

Most people can with experience can shear a sheep in about 5 minutes. It depends upon skill level of the shearer and the condition and attitude of the sheep during shearing.

How much money is the wool worth?

Most sheep farmers would get 20-30 cents per pound of wool. Prices do change year to year but that is normal. Our wool this year averaged 31 cents per pound with a range of 7-77 cents per pound.

Unfortunately, this year 2020, our wool sold for $0.02 per pound, yikes!

If you are selling wool to handspinners or crafters I have seen as much as $75 a fleece for specific breeds or special colors.

How much does the wool from a sheep weigh?

Depending upon breed anywhere from 3-20 pounds per year.

Do Sheep Ruin Pastures? Keeping Sheep And Pastures Healthy


Ewes grazing in the late summer/early fall

Sheep look great out grazing in a pasture! I love to see happy sheep eating grass. But is grazing sheep on your pasture really good for the pasture plants and the soil underneath?

Sheep do not ruin pastures. Properly managed sheep improve pasture quality and performance. However, mismanagement of any grazing animals, including sheep, can and will degrade pastured land.

For some reason, there seem to be two common (and opposing) answers to sheep and pastures:

  1. Sheep are good for pastures
  2. Sheep are really bad for or are ruining pastures.

Wow, those two statements are polar opposites! It sounds like something is missing here, which one is true?

The missing part is management. Poor management can indeed ruin a pasture.

This has nothing to do with the animals, of course, sheep or other wise, it has to do with the people managing, actually mismanaging, the sheep and the land.

How do we move our sheep and fence them in, year round? Check out ElectroNet 9/35/12 For Sheep for all the details on the things we love and the things we aren’t too keen on with this netting.

We use electric netting to move our sheep across the pasture.

The flip side is that good management can and will improve a pasture, again not having anything to do with the livestock in this case being sheep.

The eaters of the pasture are helping to improve the pasture due to the management of their movements. This could be cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, etc.

Now that we know the sheep are just eaters and the results really come from the management, what do we need to do to make our pastures healthy and productive?

This will depend on your situation, of course, but there are basic ideas that apply to all grazing. Let’s get started!

Consider the needs of the pasture land

  • Number of sheep your selected area can support vs how many sheep you plan to graze
  • What type of pasture grasses are you managing to promote or discourage
  • How to tell by pasture condition when sheep need to move
  • What to do when you do not have more grass for your sheep

Know the number of sheep your pasture can support

The more sheep you have on your pasture the higher the output of the pasture is going to need to be to support your animals.

The ability of your pasture to produce forage (forage is a catch all term for plants the sheep could eat) is the biggest variable you will have to consider.

Forage production changes based on weather and seasons of the year.

The only way to determine what works for you, your sheep and your land is to try and see what happens on your farm then adjust as needed.

The “Perfect” Sheep Pasture is an article by Ulf Kintzel going over what he noticed about his pastures when he moved to his farm and how he decided to change what was growing in them to better suit his flock.

Ewes grazing in the winter. Since there is not much grass here, they are getting fed hay. This grass will grow like crazy in the spring.
Sheep grazing in late winter.

Actually, this is the reason I used the picture above. Not a lot of grass to be seen. So true, but look closely, there’s snow.

This picture is from late February and we live in Ohio. Our grass stops growing in October.

The pasture still having grass for the sheep to eat in February means we kept them off of it in the grazing season so there would be growth left to eat in the winter.

Small Acreage And Backyard Sheep will go over sheep on a smaller scale, even backyard sized.

Move sheep to a new pasture based on the grass

Move your sheep to new grass when the pasture they have has been mostly eaten, not completely eaten to the ground. Leaving some grass stubble allows the grass to regrow more quickly.

How long each move will support your sheep depends upon the size of the move and how the forage is growing in that specific area.

We have moves that are two days worth of grass and some that are the same size that are one day’s worth of grass. It depends upon where we are at on the farm.

When your sheep are done grazing in a pasture is determined by what grasses and other forages you are trying to promote and which ones you are trying to discourage.

Some forages do well with being grazed down to a shorter plant length- bluegrass and white clover are two easy examples. These two forages seem to do well with multiple grazings down to a shorter height.

The trade off when you manage your pasture for shorter growth is total forage production for that area is less than if you managed the pasture for taller forages.

There is nothing wrong with utilizing the shorter forages as long as the plants are growing well and keeping the the soil covered.

Increase rest time before regrazing

If you want to have the most growth in a pasture you must manage the grazing periods to allow the forages to grow to full height before turning in the sheep.

Once the sheep have fully grazed down the area they need to be moved off to another area.

This pasture must be rested until the plants are at full height again then the sheep can come back into this pasture.

Only allowing the sheep to graze taller forages promotes plants like orchard grass and red clover. These taller forages produce much more eating per acre for your sheep than the shorter forages.

The trade off here is that the longer rest period is mandatory to keep these taller growth plants healthy.

Frequent repeated grazings to a short height will weaken these taller growth forages so they will not be able to out compete the shorter forages.

Move sheep when grass is half eaten

You will need to move the sheep to a new pasture when about half of the forage in the current pasture is eaten or in the case of the taller forages knocked over.

If the sheep have shaved the grass down to nothing, they have been there too long and you are reducing the total production of the pasture for the year.

Leaving some growth helps the forage regrowth faster for the next grazing.

The time your flock can spend in an area changes with the weather and season of the year. Forage growth animal nutritional needs and soil conditions are always changing.

Spend time in the pasture with your sheep

Head on out and spend some time with the flock and see how they are doing.

Are the sheep happily grazing? How does the grass look? Is the ground handling the foot traffic easily?

Move the sheep as needed according to your situation. Each year, season, flock of sheep, and pasture has specific needs.

Your job is to coordinate all this together for the best possible results with the healthiest sheep and pastures.

If you find that you have plenty of pasture, or maybe a bit too much, consider making some hay off of your extra to use later in the non growing season.

This is a great “problem” to have! My article How Do You Make Hay? will get you started.

Out of sheep pasture? Make a sacrifice area

This is a tough situation to be in for any livestock owner but it can and does happen. You now have to make the decision of which aspect of your farm to prioritize.

How Many Bales Of Hay For Sheep? will help you figure up your flock’s hay usage for when you are short on grass.

You have two options.

Option 1: Let the sheep in a pasture that is not rested enough and hope for the best.

The good news here is the sheep will have plenty of opportunity to move around and eat the little sprouts of regrowth coming up off the the recently grazed forages.

Sheep love the tender new growth and will gobble it right up.

The bad news is eating the newly sprouted regrowth is hard on the plants in your pasture.

It depletes their energy stores making them weaker and less able to compete for growing space and nutrients.

Option 2. Make a sacrifice area.

A sacrifice area is a small part of the pasture that you section off to keep the sheep away from the rest of the pastures.

The sacrifice area you will keep the sheep in is “sacrificed” to maintain the quality and production ability of the rest of your land.

You will need to feed and water your sheep in the sacrifice area.

Sometimes the pasture needs protected from the sheep to keep them from overgrazing an area. Other times to prevent damaging the soil structure.

Lots of sheep trotting around on soggy ground compacts the soil. Compacted soil does not have the air spaces needed for microorganisms, worms or roots to thrive so it can not grow the best forages for your sheep.

Once acceptable pasture conditions return the sheep can be put back out to pasture.

The sacrifice area can be renovated to be productive again or kept as a reserve space to be ready next season if these less than ideal conditions are common in your area.

Final Thoughts

Management decisions regarding your pastures and sheep need to be tailored to your specific farm and the needs of your sheep.

Remember, you are seeing the results of your previous choices. If you like what you see keep up the good work! If you don’t like what you see make some changes!

Get out to the pasture. Spend some time with your sheep. Adjust as you learn. Enjoy the opportunity.